Having climbed 1,500 feet before breakfast in the dark after doing the same the night before, we still had a good 12 miles to lug the tent and gear to the next base camp at Laguna Torre in the hope of catching a glimpse of the notoriously shy Cerro Torre.
The hike to the next base camp was long, fairly uneventful and mostly filled by singing theme tunes from childhood cartoons, including a horrible rendition of the theme tune to the The Racoons by me in a vain attempt to a) make Soph remember because in contrast to me has a beautiful singing voice and I really wanted to hear it, and b) prove that it was by far the best theme song ever.
We got to base camp with the light fading and nothing but clouds in the sky and without even a glimpse of the peaks. The plan was simple, tent, food, sleep. I awoke to Soph shrieking “Its there, I can see it!” Bleary eyed I rushed out as after seeing how quickly the weather in patagonia changes I didn’t want to take the chance of missing it. It was indeed there and it is without doubt the most beautiful collection of peaks I have ever seen, there is something very different about it which is impossible to put into words.
With the moon still awake and the sun rising slowly behind us we made our way to the edge of the laguna.
Despite a couple of monster blisters and a good 6 hour walk back to El Chalten we decide to take the less trodden route around the side of Laguna Torre towards the base of Cerro Torre, which you can see below to the right above the glacier.
Autumn was in full swing as the peaks got closer and closer.
After sitting and listening to the epic sounds of tons of ice which has taken 100 years to flow to this point, crack and plunge into the water below we knew we should turn and head back. It was actually trekking home that yielded some of the best views of Cerro Torre.
The view straight up from and tent.
We got to see the views that we would of had the day before if the weather was a little more forgiving.
This was the last view we had of Torre and a chance to see the three big peaks that we had trekked to in the last few days. Cerro Solo on the left which we had me chipping ice off my lens. Cerro Fitz Roy which we had been up twice on the right and Cerro Torre sitting enigmatically in the middle.
We talked about steak the entire way home only to find that the town was almost completely closed for the winter…an amazing bottle of Malbec and a tub of dulce de le luche filled in nicely.